Last Journey post....Home sweet Home

Well, I have just a couple more stories I need to share in order to wrap up "Carl and Bev's Great Adventure." We are home now but we had a couple of last days with, again, some stories.

Our journey from Explora to Calafate took about two hours, but our flight was much later that evening so we had about 3 hours in town, which we were both pleased about for two reasons. One, we could have a long, leisurely lunch, and two, we could look around the town a bit more since we only had 30 minutes the last time we flew through.

Our driver was Juan, the same driver we had for our first Patagonia transfer to Helsingfors. He lives in Calafate and took us to the best Parilla (Grill) and Asado (BBQ) Restaurant in town. BBQ does not mean the same thing as in the States, i.e. ribs, chicken, and beef smothered in BBQ sauce. BBQ in Patagonia refers to the method of cooking which is basically hanging up a lamb over a fire pit to slow cook it.

We decided to have Empanada's (we love them!) for appetizers and then shared a steak. We ordered a beef, caprese (cheese, onion and tomato) and vegetable. Well, we sliced open the vegetable empanada, and of course, wait for it....yes, it was ESPINACHE'. Could not have been more perfect ending to our trekking adventure. We were literally LOL!!!


It was a long flight back to Buenos Aires because we made a stop along the way and were finally at our hotel at about midnight. We hadn't had dinner, but luckily, restaurants are open very late in BA and most people don't even go to dinner until 10:00. We found out the great steak house we went for lunch the first day would have their kitchen open until 1:00 A.M. We heading over and had just ordered our food when I looked across the room and saw this guy that looked very familiar. That didn't make any sense because how could I know anyone in BA? Then, I realized it was Seth and Ephram--the two guys from New York that we met at Los Notros and had dinner with!!!!! Unbeleiveable. We went over to their table and as I am walking up I am saying "Oh, my gosh, I can't believe you two are here", they both turned around and about fell off their chairs!!! "OMG! no way" "OMG!!"

Then, we find out they are also staying at the Sofitel (where we are staying) and also leaving the next evening. They had just arrived in BA about an hour before we did. Now people, understand, Buenos Aires is a city of 10 MILLION PEOPLE!!!

We saw them at breakfast the next morning at the hotel and we all set off separately for a last day of shopping. Carl and I had been shopping for over half the day and had just finished a fantastic lunch at Cabrerra (see the photo above of the fantastic side dishes that accompany your steak - mashed potatoes, pumpkin/squash, olives, applesauce, etc.) and he was trying to find this great ice cream shop that Ephram had told us about. We had been walking for some time when we saw a coffee and ice cream shop and Carl decided he would just go there since we couldn't find the other one. Just as we head to the front door who walks out? SETH AND EPHRAM!!! Unbelievable again. You will also see a photo of the ghetto rental car we had to use for shopping ;-).

By now we realize our paths are fated to cross so it is no surprise to any of us when we run into both of them again at the hotel when we return from shopping and they have just checked out and are getting ready to go to the airport. We look forward to a trip to New York where I am sure we will run into them the very first night at dinner! If not, we will surely reach out to be sure we do.

As we headed to the airport, we had to cross through two toll stations and it was "rush hour" in BA (this is at 8:00 p.m. - they eat til 1:00 a.m. and then don't go to work until 9:00 or 10:00 a.m.). People begin to get impatient and start honking horns loudly because if they honk long enough, the operators will open the gates and just let everyone drive through. Carl got a great video of this action - see below.

From there, it was just a very, very, long journey home - total of about 20 hours with wait time, travel and layovers, but otherwise uneventful. 14 loads of very smelly, very dirty laundry packed the weekend along with getting the house ready for Christmas and our Sons arrival.

Back home is bittersweet and a bit melancholy. There is nothing quite as delicious as ones own bed. Nor the familiarity of knowing where everything is and the beauty of a common language. That being said however, the excitement and challenge that is part of traveling in foreign lands cannot be replaced. Sometimes it's OK not to know all the answers. Sometimes, just sometimes, it is also alright to be off balance, a bit uncomfortable, a little disoriented. That is when true adventure actually begins.....

Until next time, we bid you adieu

Ciao. 

Grupo de Ocho!

Wow! Visiting and trekking in amazing surroundings is one thing, being able to meet some fantastic people along the way: priceless. As I mentioned in the last post, we connected very well with three other couples during our Grey Glacier Trek. Part of what I didn't share is how Explora guides take such good care of us. About midway through the trek, during one of several rest and photography stops, they bring out a tupperware container filled with trail mix and another one filled with chocolate bars, chocolate bars with almonds and granola bars.
When we stopped for lunch at the Grey Glacier Lake, we learned our guide (a young woman maybe 25 years old) although not tiny, certainly not large, carrying a 35 pound pack that contained our meal. She begins by laying out a green and white checked table cloth and then proceeds to collect three flat rocks. She sets one of the flat rocks on the other, a bit off to the side, and this become a sort of lazy susan type device to hold mustard for our sandwiches. She then pulls out a thermos of Tomato soup and pours each of us a cup. She has set out sandwiches, Turkey, Salmon and Cheese. Along with tomatoes, mushrooms, pickles and nuts.

After lunch, she brings out - no lie - Coffee and Bailey's and Chocolate Brownies! These people know how to treat you!

We had inquired about the opportunity to take sunrise pictures the next morning, and they arranged a private guide and a 4:00 a.m. wake up call to take us to the perfect spot. The Guide is ready and waiting for us at 4:30 and by 5:10 Carl (and Susan, wife of Stuart and also a Photographer, although as she says, "just for herself" except for that stint she did for the Queen of England. Not joking.) begin to take photos. Our guide is Emilio and he is 24 years old and also an aspiring photographer. Once he learned that Carl is a professional photographer, he did not leave his side. I think he had a man crush on Carl. He was, as Susan said, like a little puppy.

We also then realized they had brought us muffins, pastries and coffee for our early morning photo shoot. Emilio could not run fast enough down that hill to bring coffee and muffins back up to Carl. It was endearing.

We did an afternoon event of horseback riding, but before the riding, was an Asado at an Estancia Quincho (an eat-in BBQ-type of structure). Asado is an Argentine BBQ prepared by Gauchos. Again, we got the delicious Empanadas for appetizer (Beef and Corn - no Espinache!). They were the best we had so far, delicious. We then enjoyed BBQ lamb which was also very good - salad, vegies, wine, beer, the works. Nothing better than to drink beer and wine before going on a ride! Another note - by this time the Spinach Empanada story has started making it's way through the guides (thank you Stuart! ;-) I had two separate guides come up and ask if I wanted Spinach Empanada!









Gustav (on the grey horse, below) was not looking forward to the riding. He had, shall we say, a bad experience in the past while riding and was really, really, uncomfortable with the whole idea of riding again. I must say however, that he did absolutely fantastic! Got back on that horse, so to say! Bravo Gustav!



I also decided to ask our guide Juan if it would be possible to take my horse for a "run" as our ride was set up as pretty much a walk only, for more beginner-type riders, which is fine, but my horse (ok, and me) really wanted to run. Juan said we could only do a short run because the group would be waiting for us and in a flash, his horse took off running with mine responding immediately. One other man wanted to run as well, so the three of us were off! I must say I haven't "ran" with a horse in years. A little galloping years ago in Black Butte, but actually running free (over the plains of Patagonia no less!) was simultaneously thrilling and frightening. These horses can move! And they like to run very close under trees - ack duck! - but I wouldn't have traded it for the world.

After the horseback ride it was back to the "Lodge" with a few hours to kill (napping, blogging, etc.) and then dinner together again with Grupo de Ocho.



Another post to follow!
Ciao!

Grey Glacier - New Friends...

Torres del Paine is fantastic. We can't get over the beauty and abundance that we get to experience. So, a little layout of Explora Lodge: it is a magnificent lodge in the Park and everything is included. All of our excursions, meals, etc. When we got to the Chilean Border on Saturday, we were taken in an Explora Van to the Lodge. This is when we first met Stuart and Susan Graber from London. Actually, he is from New York, but they live in London....more on that later. 

As we mentioned in the last post, we had a small hike our first day. After that, in the evening, everyone attends an orientation session which gives a broad overview of all the various excursions and activities available. Then, that evening you sign up for the next days' excursions. The day-long trek to Grey Glacier looked very good so we met with the guide that was giving more detail on that hike and ended up signing up for it. We saw that the British couple were also doing Grey Glacier. 

The next morning, we had to be in the lobby at 7:30 a.m. (don't ya love vacation?) and then we were driven to the starting point of our trek and divided into groups. It didn't appear as if we were going to be in the same group as Stuart and Susan, but somehow she made a switch and we were together. Also with us were an adorable young couple from Brazil, Gustav and Franciny, and another great couple from Israel, Anat and Opher. This was the beginning of "Grupo de Ocho", Group of Eight.  We all just hit it off so well and this was a very long hike - 8 miles, all the way to the lake and then a boat ride to the glacier.

So, Stuart, as a good New Yorker should, LOVES to talk. I mean really loves to talk, even more so than Amoth's. The great thing is, he has fantastic stories and has us all in stitches! Then we have the wonderful Brazilian couple, who are gorgeous and funny as well. Add in our new Israeli friends and we had a mixture for happiness for the next four days.

Suffice to say from that point on we are all doing the same events, eating our meals together and literally laughing to pieces all the time. It has made this trip even more enjoyable than we could imagine. We are determined to keep in touch and I will start an email stream to ensure that we keep in contact. We have included pictures from the Grey Glacier and the Sunrise pictures we took the next morning at 4:30 AM!!!!!!!!!!!

We will add in pictures and more stories on the next post of Grupo de Ocho!

Adios!

Long day, good day - Torres del Paine

Once again, the beauty continues. We had to get up early this morning (Saturday the 13th) to be taken to Torres del Paine (TDP). The good news is that we had a private driver in a very large 15 passenger van all to ourselves. He took us to the Chilean border (4 1/2 hours from Los Notros) where the Hotel van picked us up for the last leg (1 1/2 hours). We were immediately initiated with the amazing Chilean hospitality - these people are determined to be sure you have a wonderful time and that you see as much of the park as possible. We met a nice couple from London (the husband is originally from New York and still a New Yorker after 25 years in London).

Once we got settled in the Hotel, we went down for late lunch before an afternoon hike. They actually get it that after sitting in a car for 6 hours you want to move your body. As we headed down to lunch, we ran into the Austrian couple we had met in the Buenos Aires airport on our way to Helsingfors. For such a large territory, it is indeed a small world. They had a wonderful time at TDP and were heading out to their next destination. We told them about both Los Notros (Perito Mirano Glacier) and Helsingfors (Alfredo Glacier, Fitz Roy, etc.) and they decided they really want to go to Helsingfors for a more remote and rustic experience.

We had a great lunch of grilled salmon and then headed out for our afternoon hike. Not too long, only about 5K but a pretty good uphill at the end. VERY WINDY here, unlike the last two places. However, it is magnificent and beautiful for what we have seen so far. We are going on a day-long hike tomorrow to Grey Glacier. There is also a great 1/2 day horseback ride that we are interested in doing and a Gaucho BBQ.

So much to do, so little time......

p.s. Pam - they had these great red lentils served with the salmon today that were delicious - I was thinking about you!







Love you all,

Adios!